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FORMAL WEAR GLOSSARY OF TERMS

Suits

Cutaway or Stroller: For formal or daytime weddings, the groom wears the cutaway / morning coat, which tapers from the front waist button to a long, wide back tail. The cutaway jacket is either black or grey and is worn with matching striped trousers.

Dinner Jacket: A white or ivory jacket with black formal trousers is an ideal option in Spring and Summer months or year-round in warmer climates.

Tuxedo: A single or double breasted jacket with matching trousers for formal or semi-formal evening events.

White Tie: This is a classic choice for an ultra formal evening event. The tailcoat jacket is short in front with two long black tails. A white pique wing collar shirt, vest and tie are also worn.

Lapels

Tuxedo jackets come with three basic lapel styles. Some are more flattering to certain body types. Choosing the lapel that is right for you is a matter of taste.

Notch: A triangle indention is cut where the lapel joins the collar. This is the least formal lapel style.

Peak: A broad V-shaped lapel that points up and out just below the collar line.

Shawl: A smooth, rounded lapel with no notch.

Shirts

White pique shirt: This standard style dress shirt is made from white pique fabric, which has some texture. Wear it with a white tie and vest.

Sleeves: As for sleeve cuffs, you have a few options: standard dress-shirt cuffs held together with cuff links; French cuffs, which are folded over and closed with cuff links; and cuffs that close with a button. The choice is yours, but, in general, formal shirts call for cuff links.

The main difference between shirt styles is in the collar.

Band (Mandarin) Collar: A collar that stands up around the neck and above the buttons. This is the most contemporary style tuxedo shirt. If ties put you in mind of a hangman's noose, try this shirt: You can wear it without a tie.

Wing Collar: Similar to the band collar but the two turned down points in front give the appearance of a spread collar. This is the most formal choice and the collar style most often worn with tuxedo jackets.

Spread Collar: Similar to a man's standard button front shirt, it folds over and around the neck with a wide division between points in front. The wider collar makes it a good choice with a Euro tie or a standard necktie tied Windsor style.

Accessories

Ascot: A wide necktie that is looped over and held in place beneath the chin with a tie tack or stick pin. Usually reserved for ultra-formal daytime weddings and worn with a cutaway coat and striped gray trousers.

Bolo tie: You go, cowboy! If you're having a Western-themed wedding, live in Santa Fe, or are a working broncobuster, this stringy tie is for you. But if your bride has other visions in her head, think again before breaking out your turquoise-studded bolo tie for the wedding, and go instead for something more classic.

Bow Tie: A short tie shaped like a bow that can be worn with a wing or spread collar. A bow tie adjusts to fit any neck size and are probably the thing to wear with a classic tux. They come in several colors besides basic black, white is usually reserved for super-formal events, and colored bow ties are suitable for any occasion. You can match the wedding colors, but basic black is far classier, so think twice before ordering that fuchsia tie.

Cuff Links: These little babies can make or break an outfit. If you want style, try illuminated cufflinks or have an inset color other than black. If simple elegance is your style, stick with black cuff links outlined in gold or silver. Who knows? Maybe your bride will give you a set as a groom gift on the big day.

Cummerbunds: A silk or satin sash as an alternative to a vest, to be worn at the waist and covering the waistband. A cummerbund should be worn with the pleats facing upward. Usually basic black, but you can choose from colored cummerbunds to match the bridesmaid dresses or the wedding colors.

Euro (Sharpe) Tie: This is a hybrid between an ascot tie and a regular, run-of-the-mill necktie. A long knotted square bottom neck tie worn with a wing or spread collar shirt. This type offers a more formal look that«s not as all-out as an ascot.

Necktie: If you have an office job, you probably own a slew of these. They're also called four-in-hands and are perfect for more casual -- yet still elegant -- wedding looks. Important tip: Breaking out your tie-die necktie to lighten up your wedding tux is definitely not funny. Go for silk in silver or blue.

Pocket Square: A small pocket handkerchief tucked into the left breast pocket worn by groomsmen instead of a boutonniere. It is generally made of silk, linen, or another fine fabric and comes in solid colors or prints to coordinate with the tie or cummerbund.

Studs (no, not the guys in the wedding party): Jewelry similar to cuff links that are used to close the front of a tuxedo shirt.

Suspenders: Also referred to as braces, these can be worn with a cummerbund in a coordinating color or pattern.

Vest: For an ultra-formal evening wedding, clad yourself in a white tie and waistcoat. Or choose a colored waistcoat instead of a cummerbund, popular in Britain. Vests let men in the wedding party lend a bit of personality to their looks and they come in a full back, half back and open back.

JACKETS

Tails or tailcoat: Yep, these tails are talking to you. The eponymous tails actually have tails, with a two- to six-button front. Generally worn at ultra-formal evening weddings.

Tuxedo: A tuxedo jacket can be single-breasted (with a one- to four-button front) or double-breasted (with a two- to six-button front) and is worn at formal or semiformal evening events. The basic tux comes in a variety of flavors. Pick single- or double-breasted with one of three lapels: peaked, notched, or shawl. Wear it with black, satin-striped trousers.

Mandarin, a.k.a. Nehru jacket: This jacket features a stand-up collar with no lapel and is worn with a Mandarin-collared shirt. Hint: This combo provides a sneaky way to avoid wearing a tie.

Cutaway: For formal daytime weddings, the groom wears the cutaway coat -- short in the front, long in the back, and tapering from the front waist button to a wide back tail. Cutaway jackets are either black or gray and are worn with matching striped trousers.

Stroller coat: This semiformal jacket is a semi-formal suit jacket cut like a tuxedo. Usually charcoal gray or black and typically worn in the daytime.

TROUSERS

If you choose a formal tuxedo, your trousers (or kilt in some cases) should match your jacket in style and color. If you'll be in a formal daytime wedding and will wear a stroller coat or cutaway coat, wear gray or gray pinstriped trousers.

Back to the Groom's Corner



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