Bora Bora
Island Escape

by Belkis Kambach

Bora-Bora's exotic name alone makes the journey here worthwhile. It's unique geography lives on in the minds of anyone who has visited. Mount Otemanu sits at the center of the island like a giant tombstone in the sky overlooking its main feature: the world-famous, turquoise blue-multihued lagoon that shimmers radiantly. Huge reef and a protective strand of offshore motus ring the entire lagoon scattered along large corals, making it easy for couples to lay claim to a private islet for a day. Bora Bora's palm-lined white sand beaches offer a vacation setting that is hard to top anywhere on earth.

The green mountain's craggy features came clearly into view, becoming recognizable as Mt. Otemanu, a ragged remnant of a massive volcano that juts 2,400 feet out of the Pacific, dramatically defining the island of Bora-Bora. This island's stunning beauty resulted from an ancient volcanic erosion, resulting in shark's teeth ridges rising above a narrow lagoon. Several ultra luxury resorts line these shores, many featuring over-the-water bungalows.

For our first wedding anniversary, I conjured up something magical and managed to keep it a secret from my husband Rob: a weekend at the devastatingly romantic Moana Beachcomber Parkroyal Hotel in Bora Bora. Set on the white sands of Matira Beach, it is just a four hour sail from Raiatea or ( forty-five minute flight from Papeete). Often referred to as "The Island of Dream," this small island is the perfect romantic escape.

As we stepped into the gracious lobby, the staff greeted us with Polynesian Mai Tais, warm hand towels and a gentle Ia orana! Since I had already checked us in from the Nemo, a chatty hotesse showed us our breathtaking accommodations. We meandered throughout the blue lagoon, lush with tropical foliage throughout this tiny village of 102 suites (41 are over-the-water- bungalows) surrounded by tiara and bird-of-paradise.

Our spectacular, secluded "fare" over-the-water-bungalow was an unabashedly romantic retreat. These thatched suites seem to have been designed with honeymooners in mind. We have a sweeping view of the lagoon from the simple but elegant sitting room, and double Pandanus doors open onto a bedroom with a bamboo-trimmed, king-for-a-day bed covered with hundreds of freshly cut flowers. A dressing room and bathroom decorated with live vanilla plants scenting the air ensured that our every creature comfort was met.

Built in authentic Polynesian style, the suites are a jewel of traditional Polynesian architecture. Designed with the finest materials and finished in exquisite tropical wood, they are topped with elaborately hand-tied thatch roofs made of paeve. The bungalows, raised on stilts a few feet above the sand in the quiet serene lagoon, keep out some, but not all, wandering Polynesian crabs. The deck opens eastward, displaying dramatic South Pacific sunrises and spectacular moon rises above the placid water. These brilliant sky scenes will be forever sketched in our memory.

The luxury accommodations are located in quiet, secluded areas for couples seeking privacy. We appreciated the hotel's honeymoon signature welcome: delicately sweet fresh coconut, a white polo for Rob, and for me, a beautiful white pareu - the wrap around, saron-like garment worn in several different styles by both men and women here. We also received two mouse pads picturing our bungalow in the glow of a gorgeous Polynesian sunset. Who could complain?

Shortly after our arrival and with our appetites ravenous after our four hour sail from Raitea to get here, we were ready to dine. We strolled to the restaurant, for an ultra romantic, candlelit dinner. All the way enjoying the scent of tropical flowers scenting the cool night air, tiara, (Gardenia taitensis, the Tahitian national flower) a profusion of bougainvillaea, hibiscus, ginger, crouton, frangipani, ferns, jasmine, and exotic species of orchids, closed in, surrounding us with their heady perfume. Reality seemed suspended here.

Menus here feature something Polynesian, grilled parrot fish or Mahi-Mahi caught fresh from the seas surrounding, lobster shrimp; something vegetarian, like sauteed vegetables with a Tahitian sauces; exotic, poisson cru, baked salmon and a variety of local seafoods. The cuisine created is excellent. Lunches and hors d'oeuvres served al fresco facing the lagoon. Nightly dinner special and the nightly grill, set up around the lagoon, which feature seafood. Every menu seems to revolve around the abundant seafood. The resort offers two dining venues decorated in beautifully designed and relaxing Polynesian dˇcor. adjacent to the beach and gracious landscaped terrace, both venues overlook the majestic lagoon of Bora Bora.

During dinner, musicians played to the rhythm of Tahitian Teore and ukulele with a passionate beat and dancers began their percussive, un-abashedly sensual dances. Stunning Tahitian women with their dark eyes and welcoming smiles undulate to the music, with brilliant red hibiscus in their hair and sarongs slung low around their hips. They performed brief dances throughout the dining room, while rubber-legged male dancers rapidly shifted their weight from one foot to the other. It doesn't surprise me that the missionaries banned these native dances. A fitting way to end such a memorable day in Bora Bora.

Fabrice Bohbote, the hotel GM and another French expatriate, had traveled to Bora Bora 12 years ago and still finds himself here. He called our first evening to welcome us to the hotel and asked, "Have you turned on your Polynesian TV yet?" We almost laughed at him, as TV would be the last thing on our minds while in heaven. He then explained: the coffee table in the living room had a removable top so that we could feed the fish in the water just below. We were mesmerized by our personal aquarium, which was illuminated at night and gave us a clear view directly into the lagoon below.

The next morning we slept in late, then slipped on our new Moana pareus over our swimsuits and padded our way straight into the lagoon. We spent our second day in the bungalow, not wanting to leave our romantic new home. To surprise your love one, have breakfast delivered by a flower - decked outrigger canoe after your first morning dip with the hotel's long trumpet fishes. Organize it the night before. You can also have a romantic sunset dinner delivered to your balcony.

The next morning we left early to meet our group of sailing buddies for a snorkel. We tackled a gullied, red-dirt trail, overgrown with vegetation, partially paved and lined with flamboyant trees dripping with red blooms. You can wander the dramatic emerald isle for hours without seeing another soul. You can explore the island's 19-mile ring road by moped, bicycle, auto, horseback or foot. The road around the coastal plains of Bora Bora around the jagged, verdant mountains climb almost vertically from the lagoon. Mt. Otemanu is considered unclimbable from any angle.

In town, we could hear the buzzing sounds on doors marked "Salon des Tatouges." Tattooes originated in Polynesia, and before colonization men wore an assortment of them and were considered less than desirable without many of them decorating their bodies. A man's family origin was tattooed on his right side while his victories and awards on his left. Officially banned by the missionaries and government, tattoos have experienced a resurgence in recent years. Modern tattooists use an electric needle, but the original way was a shark's tooth and mallet.

A foaming reef encircles the 80 km. multi-colored lagoon, three times larger than its land mass with luminous blue-green water that varies with depth. Bora Bora is dotted with motus--tiny islets that look like cartoonists' stereotypical desert islands. In the middle, Nemo sits at anchor, stone-still in the bright sun.

We sailed off to a Motu ( the word for the tiny, palm-studded islands that dot the region) and snorkeled around various clusters of coral, searching for underwater delights. At the spectacular Bora-Bora Lagoon-arium. We were content to snorkel in the clear, warm water and shallow reefs that created an aquarium teeming with colorful tropical fish. Snorkeling slowly, we saw droves of fish in myriad colors, and gasped with wonder at these beautiful creatures.

We also swam with well-fed reef sharks and large manta rays. Several rays glided effortlessly toward us, lazily flapping their six-foot-span fins. They circled us, awaiting a squid snack. Taking care to avoid their long tails, we enticed them and black-tipped reef sharks with bits of raw fish. We approached and stroked the rays' velveteen backs, their large gill spiracles pulsing behind searching eyes as they gobbled handouts with their flat, narrow mouths. We had not imagined that these magnificent animals were accustomed to humans in their eons-old environment and that we could snorkel with those prehistoric looking creatures.

Our visit here was made more memorable when, to our surprise, we came face to face with six black-tip sharks. We hastily swam back when along came a five-foot gray reef shark - more dangerous than the common black-tips. We just couldn't stop marveling how lucky we were to experience a brief encounter with these beauties and the rare opportunity to see the natural behavior of this unique animal. Only when they flapped out of view did we realize that the nearby coral formtions and huge colorful fishes were also deserving of our attention. Rob surfaced with his mask on and said angel fish!

Reality unfortunately had to surface. Our flight home was up in an hour, and it was time to leave this insular paradise we had found. As our plane lifted into the heavens, Rob whispered to me, "Little one: this is my idea of paradise." And who could possibly argue? We watched Bora Bora disappear, surrounded by aqua blue waters that are transparent even from the air. That evening, so ended for us a week in the unspoiled paradise that is French Polynesia - where coconut palms and pandanus still stand taller than the Bora Bora Moana Beachcomber Parkroyal.